Vivienne Westwood: F/W 1994 - 1995, “On Liberty”
An Analysis of Vivienne Westwood’s “On Liberty” Collection
The Ask
Identify one collection from a specific designer or brand active any time after 1959 and analyze its historical references, relation to the zeitgeist of the time, and overall message/theme.
From her rebellious punk rock image in the 1970s to her well-known collaboration with the anime "Nana" in 2006, Vivienne Westwood's work has always fascinated me. My passion for Westwood was rediscovered when she underwent a comeback in 2020 thanks to gen z's fascination with her iconic corset tops and classic Saturn pearl necklaces. Because of its significant historical allusions and message of embracing the feminine body and femininity, Westwood's "On Liberty" F/W 1994–95 collection captured my attention when I was choosing a designer to evaluate. In order to learn about Westwood's inspirations for the collection and her goals, I consulted a number of sources, including Vogue and the Met Museum.
Part One: Analyzing a Collection
THE PROCESS
Part Two: Noting the Historical References
In preparation for my analysis, I conducted copious amounts of research on relationships between current events, fashion designers, and icons in developing fashion trends from 1850 to 1989. Westwood’s “On Liberty” collection took inspiration from a range of historical fashion elements ranging from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s that were generally used to hide women's bodies and confine them into certain misogynistic roles and shifted their narrative into pieces meant to highlight the power that women hold. Historical references included trends such as the bustle, plaid, corset, frock coat, and numerous Victorian-era elements. I gathered much of my information from sources such as the textbook, articles, and links provided by my professor.
Last but not least, I was tasked with finding imagery to support my analysis. I used a variety of sources to gather imagery from, including most notably the actual photos from the “On Liberty” show featured on the Vogue website, as well as photographs from the textbook.
Part Three: Finding Imagery
THE OUTCOME
This collection analysis enabled me to obtain a greater understanding of my favorite designer, Vivienne Westwood, as well as to increase my knowledge of fashion design aspects, silhouettes, and theme identification. Additionally, it improved my understanding of runways and the significance of each component of showing a collection—from the show's production to the styling of each look—in supporting the transmission of the collection's message.